So before his debut as its artistic director, Peter Copping, the Oscar de la Renta and Nina Ricci alum, faced that eternal new-designer dilemma: How do you pay homage while still innovating?

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This article first appeared on Vogue. With the winds of change — or gale-force gossip, rather — sweeping so many fashion houses, it falls to Peter Copping to make the first of several hugely ...